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Can I put a natural tile on the wall instead of the wall screens? Does this comply with the 'non combustible wall' requirements?
Any non-combustible mineral board that is directly fixed to a combustible material like timber immediately loses its non-combustible qualities and therefore the full clearances must be applied. If this board were to be packed 25mm off the combustible material underneath and then ventilated top and bottom with 25mm air gaps then this would become a non-combustible wall covering. This can be covered with any other non-combustible material you like such as tiles etc.
As a note of caution please be aware that Fireline Gib is not a non-combustible wall covering.
How do I light my first fire?
1. Soak the reusable fire starters in methylated spirits. Tip: It is also handy to store the fire-lighters in a glass jar filled with methylated spirit.
2. Slide the Turboslide to the far right or far left position. This opens the air hole inside the door and allows air to flow through acting like an old fashioned pair of bellows.
3. Place DRY kindling and a few small logs lengthways in the front of the fire chamber leaving a clear space in front of the air inlet hole.
4. Place a soaked fire starter just under the kindling at the front of the fire chamber and light it. Try to avoid dripping methylated spirit on to any surface when doing this as it can discolour some hearth materials.
5. Close the door.
6. Once the fire is burning really well and you have a nice bed of hot embers, move the Turboslide to the central position (to cover the air inlet hole), this can be done slowly in several stages if preferred.
7. When opening the door to load more wood, slide the Turboslide to the far left or right open position, and continue as in number 6.
When and how should I clean the flue?
Pyroclassic Fires are renowned for burning very cleanly when dry fuel is used but you should still always clean your flue once a year. This is often a requirement for many insurance companies.
Keeping your flue pipes clean will help eliminate the risk of a flue fire. Your flue is also a great indication of how your wood fuel is performing. If the pipes are clean then the wood is good, if the pipes are filling up with carbon, creosote and tar deposits then you may need to revisit the operating instructions and refresh yourself with how to create a cleaner burning fire.
The easiest way to clean the flue is by placing a deep baking tray or similar under the base of the flue and sweep the flue down into this, this stops all the debris from falling into the top chamber and requiring vacuuming out. Sweeping the flue into the top chamber is never a good idea as it can restrict the flow of gasses from the primary fire chamber and cause your fire to perform poorly.
To clean the top chamber and wetback, you will need to remove the top plate (it just lifts off) and clean out the top chamber of soot and creosote. Take care not to remove any of the Kaowool lining during cleaning and ensure that the gasket is all intact before replacing the top plate. Support the flue with a frame made of wood so you can easily remove the top plate.
The build-up around the wetback is best removed by hand. The wetback can be knocked out of alignment if it is moved when the creosote is being cleaned off so be careful as this can cause the constant rise to be knocked out of alignment and can result in water hammer developing in the system.
How do I find the serial number of the fire?
The serial number is printed on a metal plate at the back of the fire. To view the panel, simply slide it up to the left side and you will be able to view it from the front.
What are the ceramic chips/divots in my cylinder? Is it normal?
These are exposed air blisters and are completely normal. The blisters are a result of small air pockets getting trapped just at the edge of the surface in our castings. Depending on how much air is trapped inside these, they sometimes erupt and take a piece of the ceramic off. These will not affect the performance of the fire at all.
There is over 35mm of thickness to the cylinder, and this is then wrapped in a thick insulating blanket and a complete steel band to ensure that nothing can escape from the cylinder walls.
My flue pipe has gone a copper colour in one section. What has happened?
If there is a concentrated spot of heat like a ring around the pipe then this is an indication of a possible internal flue fire. This is caused by a build up of creosote within the flue pipe which has then caught fire. If this is the case then a sweep would be recommended. Make sure you are using a sweep that has done a Pyroclassic fire before or has watched our video about flue cleaning. It would also pay to check the moisture content in your wood by splitting one of your logs in half and spiking it with the moisture meter that came with your Pyroclassic IV. Wood should be less than 20% to burn clean & efficiently.
We have just had a minor gas explosion/back puffing in our Pyroclassic. Why has this happened?
This could be caused for the following reasons:
- Rake not used to bring hot char forward causing wood to burn at the wrong end. Use the rake as per Operating Instructions.
- The Turboslide was not opened after re-loading large, cold logs.
- The burning of an explosive substance - battery, aerosol container, etc. DO NOT DO THIS!
- There was an insufficient bed of coals to ensure adequate ignition of a fresh fuel load.
- Too high moisture content of wood fuel. Split one of your logs in half and use your moisture meter to test the wood.
As a point of caution you should never insert a fresh log which is too large or placed in the fire too late to ensure a flaming combustion, doing this will cook the wood fuel on the remaining embers releasing unburnt volatile gases into the combustion chamber which will eventually reach a point of ignition, this can result in a sizable explosion inside the fire chamber and may cause damage to the unit.
Can I use other tools in my Pyroclassic fire chamber?
Depending on how the fire is used, the surface of the cylinder can wear and erode over time. This can be accelerated through using the wrong tools, such as a flat shovel to remove ash (shown below). As you can see, this has resulted in two carved grooves in the ceramic. Although this is not ideal, it is not of a major concern as the cylinder wall is over 35mm thick so it will not compromise the integrity of the structure and the surface can easily be repaired through the application of veneering cement, which can be purchased from our Online Shop.
How do I use my moisture meter?
The moisture meter is intended to be used regularly throughout the drying process, from when you first get your wood fuel delivered right through to just before burning it. It will allow you to know exactly what the moisture content of the wood fuel you are using is and it will ensure that if used correctly your new fire will be able to perform well. Poor quality wood fuel is the number one cause of issues with all wood fires and flue systems.
My powdercoating looks worn after cooking?
The top plate of the Pyroclassic is 10mm plate steel which sits directly above the heat of the firebox making it a great surface for cooking on if desired, however as with all cookers, if used, this will leave some evidence of cooking so this is normal to show signs of use. This impact can be reduce with careful choice of how to cook and in what pan or pot, so for baking and roasting fully enclosed containers are ideal, if you are going to be frying and sautéing then this will obviously create more deposits. A good way to minimise the clean-up is to use a large piece of aluminium foil across the top which will stop any spills from marking the fire. The top plate is painted in a special Senotherm paint which can withstand very high temperatures, this allows it to be able to ‘burn off’ most spills and marks, however the powdercoated panels are not heated to the same level and so would not be able to self-clean like the top plate, these panels are therefore powdercoated to allow a smarter look in a wide range of colours.