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How do I fix down draft?
Download our down draft troubleshooting tips HERE.
What type of flue do you recommend?
We recommend a 150mm flue kit for your Pyroclassic Fire.
As we are a carboNZero certified organisation, we are not keen to support the unnecessary freight of bulky flue components great distances when there are comparable products available from reputable manufacturers in your locality. Please speak to your local Pyroclassic agent about the Flue Kit options available to you in your area.
Why are there cracks and deterioration in my Pyroclassic cylinder?
This is a natural way to relieve built-up stress in refractories. It has no effect on operation, performance or useful life of the unit. The firebox is an arch structure, the most stable and permanent construction known. These cracks will develop over time and is nothing to worry about.
Due to it being cast as a one piece cylinder it goes through some expansion and contraction every time it is heat cycled. This is just the cylinder relieving its inert tension and results in a variety of different levels of cracking.
These cracks and blisters can slowly grow over time due to erosion through use. If you do not like the appearance of the cylinder when cracks appear, you can purchase veneering cement which can be mixed to a toothpaste like consistency and inserted into the cracked areas.
The story goes that the two original designers each had a Pyro and one touched up his cylinder every year and the other never touched his...25 years later both fires were still working albeit one was looked in better looking condition internally than the other!
25 year-old Pyroclassic II Cylinder
Can I use other tools in my Pyroclassic fire chamber?
Depending on how the fire is used, the surface of the cylinder can wear and erode over time. This can be accelerated through using the wrong tools, such as a flat shovel to remove ash (shown below). As you can see, this has resulted in two carved grooves in the ceramic. Although this is not ideal, it is not of a major concern as the cylinder wall is over 35mm thick so it will not compromise the integrity of the structure and the surface can easily be repaired through the application of veneering cement, which can be purchased from our Online Shop.
Can I cook on the top?
Yes you can cook on the 10mm thick steel top plate of the fire once a good fire has been established inside the fire chamber. You can use this area for all manner of cooking or warming. The cooktop oven provides better control and more versatility with cooking, which can be purchased from our online shop.
Cook top area measures 0.26m2.
What causes a downdraft?
Unfortunately the fire has no control over the air movement within it when it is cold, it has to come from external pressures, from either outside the home pushing down the flue system or possibly from inside the home with other extraction devices causing a negative pressure that is then pulling in down the flue, it may also be a combination of both of these effects at work simultaneously.
If it happens again, try and take note of whether the house is all closed up and if any external ventilation or extraction is running that could be creating a negative pressure situation, and then also take a note of the wind direction and strength outside. By monitoring these you will then be able to discover what is causing your downdraft issues.
For more information, click here
Why does my Pyroclassic not get as hot as traditional 'black box' style wood fires?
The Pyroclassic is not a conventional radiant heater. As with all fires it can only generate the heat available from the fuel loaded into it and a single kilogram of wood fuel, soft or hard wood, carries the same calorific value by weight, so if a 'black box' fire is using 3kgs an hour of fuel and yours is using 2 then the other has 50% more heat being generated during the same period.
A percentage of the heat from a 'black box' wood fire will be lost up the flue that would normally be captured in the ceramic cylinder of the Pyroclassic. However, this doesn’t generate more heat, it just recovers some of what might have been lost.
If you want more heat then more fuel and air is the way to generate it. Load an extra piece of fuel in each time and leave the Turboslide open for a little longer, this will build more heat quicker and get the cylinder up to a higher temperature.
The maximum temperature wood fuel can combust at is 1100c and the cylinder wall in your Pyroclassic is capable of withstanding temps over 1500c so don’t worry about getting your fire too hot. The other components like the first section of flue and the coloured panels will show signs of high temp levels long before the cylinder.
Why have Pyroclassic fires dropped from No. 1 on Consumer NZ tests on their last report?
Consumer Magazine recently changed the way fires are rated. This has caused some issues across the industry as what were considered the 'best' fires are now not rated near the top...like the Pyroclassic IV. They have changed the weightings of their review to focus more on price for output over emissions and efficiency as they believe this is more in line with what the customer wants.
This has resulted in a list which is more about heat output for dollars spent rather than which fires actually perform the best. It also makes no provision for servicing costs, warranty duration or expected life of the appliance and its components.
The statement we have printed in our marketing material - 'Consistently chosen as the top pick for wood fires in all Consumer reviews' refers to the consumer reviews across various formats in NZ, Australia and the UK over the last 30 plus years including true consumer feedback.
Why do I need a Wall Screen or a Flue Shield?
Pyroclassic Fires can be installed with a double skin half round flue shield or for minimum clearances from combustible walls a correctly sized wall screen must be installed, the clearances for these are shown in the relevant Tech Spec sheet for each fire.
Alternatively you can install a Pyroclassic Fire without wall screens if you chose to use a non-combustible wall board product such as Eterpan, Supalux or Promina board and install it as per the manufacture specifications. Usually this involves ensuring a 25mm air gap is maintained between the wall board and any timber framing, through the bottom, up between the combustible surface and the screening material and out of the top.
In some instances the wall may not contain any combustible material and therefore will not require any screening.
Pyroclassic Wall Screens now have a simple keyhole hanging system to make installation very easy.
Can I use a heat transfer kit?
The simple answer is yes.
The thing with heat transfer kits is they work well with excess heat. The Pyroclassic IV produces a different kind of heat than your traditional 'black box' style wood fire. The black box fires spit out heat almost instantly as long as you keep refueling it regularly so will therefore provide you with excess heat which is why heat transfer kits are useful for these kind of fires. The Pyro on the other hand takes longer to heat up but once up to temperature retains this heat like a kiln and gives off a lovely, warm more consistent heat with less fuel needed once the cylindrical ceramic fire chamber is hot.
Many Pyro customers find this as the biggest advantage of a Pyro and have it going for 2-3 months solid during winter. However, it won't necessarily provide lots of excess heat for use in a transfer system. Our recommendation is to install the Pyro first before the transfer system as you may likely find you don't require one.
It is worth noting that in newer homes which have much better seals around doors and windows these kits can cause a negative pressure to build up in the room the fire is in as all the air is being sucked out. This results in the fire being starved of air and in some cases has even caused smoke from the starving fire being drawn back into the room. This same effect can also be caused by powerful range hoods and other fan forced systems in newer, more airtight housing.
If you are building a very airtight home, we recommend you put in an air vent, approximately the size of a fire brick. The Pyroclassic IV needs 3.6 cubic metres of air per kilogram of wood to operate effectively.