Help Centre

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  1. Refuelling onto a low firebed 22/04/2019

    The wood fuel inside a Pyroclassic® IV fire burns best on a thin bed of ash and hot coals. However, if there is insufficient burning material in the fire bed to light a new fuel charge, excessive smoke emission can occur. Refueling must be carried out onto a sufficient quantity of glowing embers and ash so that the new fuel charge will ignite in a reasonable period, add suitable kindling if necessary. If a new fuel load is left without suitable ignition then a buildup of unburnt volatile gases can occur, this can cause the unit to be put under stress when these gases eventually do combust causing a possible internal explosion. Always ensure adequate combustion and ignition of fuel and use the Turboslide as instructed.

     

  2. Door knob troubleshooting 22/04/2019

    The expected lifespan of a door knob is somewhere between 4 - 10 years depending on how the fire is being operated.

    The door handle will get hot during operation and this is completely normal.

    There are two typical known causes of premature failure of the door knob. The first is excessive charring on the back of the knob due to high levels of concentrated heat from burning close behind the door area. The second cause can be due to the door being over-tightened when it is closed which in turn leads to it being very tight to open once the fire has heated up. The continued cycle of this over-tightening causes the screws to become weakened from the higher levels of load put on them in each direction each time, which eventually results in it coming loose and breaking away from their fixings.

     

    A combination of these two is actually the most common cause of door knob failure. To avoid these issues and extend the lifespan of the door knob, keep a clear area of approximately 10cm in the front of the firebox and maintain your fire underneath the air tubes in the top of the cylinder, this will give the additional benefit of letting the cylinder absorb the maximum amount of heat from your fuel load before it leaves the fire chamber.

    If you are finding the door knob too hot when trying to refuel your fire then you are probably trying to refuel too soon, the door knob is a great indicator of what’s happening within your fire so if you can’t reload then you don’t need to yet. If your door knob is starting to show signs of charring then you are probably burning your fire too close to the door. 

    Do not lean on the door or use it to help you stand up when it is open as this can cause the door to move. If your door does become misaligned then you will need to loosen the top bolt going horizontally through the hinge bar and lift the door back into the correct position for the spindle to line up and then re-tighten the bolt.

  3. What does it mean by the Pyroclassic being 'Self Regulating'? 22/04/2019

    The vigorous fire near the loading door automatically slows down as the burning front advances through the firebox towards the back. Each cycle ends with ash and hot ember at the far end of the firebox. Only use the Turboslide when lighting, adding fresh fuel or if you quickly want a very vigorous fire. The Pyroclassic® IV not only provides heat soon after start up but it also stores a lot of the heat from burning your wood, you will get most of this heat back over several hours. Frequent reloading may result in high room temperatures but you will soon know how much and how often to add fuel, the best heater output control is how much and how often you do this. The Pyroclassic® IV is designed to save on firewood and to keep emission levels to the minimum by storing the surplus heat which normally goes up the chimney - this heat is still being released into the room even when the fire is low at the end of each burn cycle.

  4. I would like to move my existing wood fire to another location within the same house? 22/04/2019

    An existing burner that is moved within a house is considered to be a newly installed burner, so it must meet the woodburner standards in the National Environmental Standards for Air Quality. You may also need a building consent.

     

    See more information at http://www.mfe.govt.nz/air/national-environmental-standards-air-quality

  5. What are the technical specifications of the Pyroclassic IV? 22/04/2019

    Please see the last page of the Pyroclassic IV brochure, which can be downloaded HERE.

  6. Can I burn driftwood and other treated timbers in my Pyroclassic? 22/04/2019

    You cannot burn driftwood or treated timber in your Pyroclassic. Treated timer and certain enamel and lead based paints can create a volatile environment once heated up to high temperatures. When you burn driftwood the salts become very corrosive and eat into the softer ceramics leaving behind the harder silica aggregates.

    There is a lot of useful information about wood you can burn under our Useful Links section, HERE.

     

     

  7. Can I install a second hand wood burner? 22/04/2019

    We recommend you discuss your plan to install a second-hand woodburner with your local city or district council or the unitary authority in your area before purchasing the woodburner. There are factors in addition to the National Environmental Standards for Air Quality that these agencies need to consider before permitting the installation of a second-hand woodburner. 

     

    See more information at http://www.mfe.govt.nz/air/national-environmental-standards-air-quality

     

     

  8. Why have Pyroclassic fires dropped from No. 1 on Consumer NZ tests on their last report? 22/04/2019

    Consumer Magazine recently changed the way fires are rated. This has caused some issues across the industry as what were considered the 'best' fires are now not rated near the top...like the Pyroclassic IV. They have changed the weightings of their review to focus more on price for output over emissions and efficiency as they believe this is more in line with what the customer wants.

    This has resulted in a list which is more about heat output for dollars spent rather than which fires actually perform the best. It also makes no provision for servicing costs, warranty duration or expected life of the appliance and its components.

    The statement we have printed in our marketing material - 'Consistently chosen as the top pick for wood fires in all Consumer reviews' refers to the consumer reviews across various formats in NZ, Australia and the UK over the last 30 plus years including true consumer feedback.

  9. How are wood fires authorised? 22/04/2019

    There are two steps a woodburner model needs to go through to be authorised:

    1. The emissions and efficiency of the model are tested by a laboratory. The laboratory issues a test report which states the results of the test.
    2. An independent body (Environment Canterbury or the Nelson City Council) physically checks the model against the test report and gives the model an authorisation number.

    An alternative authorisation stream was introduced in June 2011 for models of burners that cannot be tested using the prescribed testing protocol. It enables burners to demonstrate compliance with the National Environmental Standards for Air Quality using a functionally equivalent method.

    See Authorisation procedure for functionally equivalent methods [PDF, 495 KB] [Environment Canterbury's website]

     

    See more information at http://www.mfe.govt.nz/air/national-environmental-standards-air-quality

     

     

  10. What chimney sweeps can you recommend to clean the flue? 22/04/2019

    It would be great if we could keep an up to date national register of all the good chimney sweeps around the country but as you can imagine this is a somewhat transient profession and so a call through the good old yellow pages and an ask around some friends is usually the best course of action to get a sweep. 

    It is always worth asking them if they have done any local Pyroclassic fires before and if so can they tell you where so you can ask the homeowner how it went, any doubts and we are always happy to give some tips to proactive chimney sweeps.