Help Centre

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  1. Why has the top plate dropped down at the front and ridden up at back and the insulating wool is visible? 15/12/2018

    The top plate may have dropped due to the front layers of insulating gasket moving out of position. This could be for a number of reasons but most often is due to a disturbance during sweeping.

    If the layers of white gasket material are still intact they can be relocated back into position. If not then new sealing strips can be ordered to replace these from our online shop.

     

  2. Why does my Pyroclassic not get as hot as traditional 'black box' style wood fires? 15/12/2018

    The Pyroclassic is not a conventional radiant heater. As with all fires it can only generate the heat available from the fuel loaded into it and a single kilogram of wood fuel, soft or hard wood, carries the same calorific value by weight, so if a 'black box' fire is using 3kgs an hour of fuel and yours is using 2 then the other has 50% more heat being generated during the same period.

    A percentage of the heat from a 'black box' wood fire will be lost up the flue that would normally be captured in the ceramic cylinder of the Pyroclassic. However, this doesn’t generate more heat, it just recovers some of what might have been lost.

    If you want more heat then more fuel and air is the way to generate it. Load an extra piece of fuel in each time and leave the Turboslide open for a little longer, this will build more heat quicker and get the cylinder up to a higher temperature. 

    The maximum temperature wood fuel can combust at is 1100c and the cylinder wall in your Pyroclassic is capable of withstanding temps over 1500c so don’t worry about getting your fire too hot. The other components like the first section of flue and the coloured panels will show signs of high temp levels long before the cylinder.

     

     

  3. I would like to move my existing wood fire to another location within the same house? 15/12/2018

    An existing burner that is moved within a house is considered to be a newly installed burner, so it must meet the woodburner standards in the National Environmental Standards for Air Quality. You may also need a building consent.

     

    See more information at http://www.mfe.govt.nz/air/national-environmental-standards-air-quality

  4. What do I do if one of my side panels are shaking/rattling when the fire is going? 15/12/2018

    Because of the panels being interchangeable and not permanently fixed to the fire there is a small chance that occasionally a panel may rattle slightly in its channel, this is due to the small gap between the coloured panel and the channel which allows the panel to move ever so slightly.

    If this occurs then it can be remedied by removing the panel and putting a slight curve across the panel (you are only wanting to add a total of around 1mm - 2mm of curve) by flexing it from top to bottom. The easiest way to do this is to lie the panel half on a flat surface and apply weight to the bottom section on the surface and also to the top section hanging off the side. This will create a slight curve in the panel. Please note: You shouldn't bend it far enough to crease the panel or have any visible curve to it. This very small relief in the panel will mean that it sits tighter against both sides of the inside of the channel section and eliminates the rattle.

  5. My flue pipe has gone a copper colour in one section. What has happened? 15/12/2018

    If there is a concentrated spot of heat like a ring around the pipe then this is an indication of a possible internal flue fire. This is caused by a build up of creosote within the flue pipe which has then caught fire. If this is the case then a sweep would be recommended. Make sure you are using a sweep that has done a Pyroclassic fire before or has watched our video about flue cleaning. It would also pay to check the moisture content in your wood by splitting one of your logs in half and spiking it with the moisture meter that came with your Pyroclassic IV. Wood should be less than 20% to burn clean & efficiently.

  6. How much does it cost? 15/12/2018

    To download the RRP price list of our Pyroclassic wood fire and accessories, click HERE. 

  7. Why is my Pyroclassic using more wood than I thought it would? 15/12/2018

    This could be because the loading door is not airtight. Check the gasket - if you need a replacement, you can purchase one from our Parts Shop.

    Another common cause of this is incorrect operation. Remember the Pyroclassic IV's significant heat storage capacity. Add logs less often and burn fuel further back in the fire chamber.

    Lastly, this can happen if the Turboslide is being left open for long periods. If this is the case, go to our Resources Page and download our operating instructions and read about how to use it correctly. 

     

  8. What does it mean by the Pyroclassic being 'Self Regulating'? 15/12/2018

    The vigorous fire near the loading door automatically slows down as the burning front advances through the firebox towards the back. Each cycle ends with ash and hot ember at the far end of the firebox. Only use the Turboslide when lighting, adding fresh fuel or if you quickly want a very vigorous fire. The Pyroclassic® IV not only provides heat soon after start up but it also stores a lot of the heat from burning your wood, you will get most of this heat back over several hours. Frequent reloading may result in high room temperatures but you will soon know how much and how often to add fuel, the best heater output control is how much and how often you do this. The Pyroclassic® IV is designed to save on firewood and to keep emission levels to the minimum by storing the surplus heat which normally goes up the chimney - this heat is still being released into the room even when the fire is low at the end of each burn cycle.

  9. How often do I need to clean out the ash? 15/12/2018

    The chamber in the Pyroclassic IV can operate with or without ash in it. However, it is preferential to empty this out every week or when the ash builds up to the extent that it could inhibit the operation of the Turboslide.

     

     

  10. Why is our water heating pulsating and noisy? 15/12/2018

    This is most likely an improperly constructed water-heating circuit. Make sure you re-check the layout.

    Please re-read your copy of the wetback instructions, available in our Downloads tab.