Help Centre

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  1. What are the clearances for a Pyroclassic IV installed on a mini raised woodbin? 21/10/2018

    You can download the installation clearances for installing a Pyroclassic IV on a mini raised woodbin HERE. 

  2. More information about the 2 hectare rule under the NES 21/10/2018

    Most urban areas in New Zealand experience air pollution during winter. Our focus is on improving air quality in those areas. Urban areas typically have smaller property sizes and as there is no nationally consistent definition for an urban environment, a property size of less than 2 hectares was used. The standard two hectare rule applies throughout New Zealand including rural areas.

     

    See more information at http://www.mfe.govt.nz/air/national-environmental-standards-air-quality

     

  3. Why is there pale blue smoke early in the morning? 21/10/2018

    The Pyroclassic is burning off small creosote deposits formed by premature banking of the fire the night before.

     

  4. Do you recommend using Smartburn in the Pyroclassic? 21/10/2018

    We have not carried out any testing with the SmartBurn in the Pyroclassic so we have no official data to go from and based on the limited knowledge we have of it there is little to suggest that it would make any significant difference to the burn environment inside a Pyroclassic. 

    A Pyroclassic in good working condition should not need a SmartBurn or similar in it to achieve a good, clean, effective and efficient burn.

     

     

  5. Why are there cracks and deterioration in my Pyroclassic cylinder? 21/10/2018

    This is a natural way to relieve built-up stress in refractories. It has no effect on operation, performance or useful life of the unit. The firebox is an arch structure, the most stable and permanent construction known. These cracks will develop over time and is nothing to worry about. 

    Due to it being cast as a one piece cylinder it goes through some expansion and contraction every time it is heat cycled. This is just the cylinder relieving its inert tension and results in a variety of different levels of cracking. 

    These cracks and blisters can slowly grow over time due to erosion through use. If you do not like the appearance of the cylinder when cracks appear, you can purchase veneering cement which can be mixed to a toothpaste like consistency and inserted into the cracked areas.

    The story goes that the two original designers each had a Pyro and one touched up his cylinder every year and the other never touched his...25 years later both fires were still working albeit one was looked in better looking condition internally than the other!

     25 year-old Pyroclassic II Cylinder 

    IMG 0241

     

  6. Why has the top plate dropped down at the front and ridden up at back and the insulating wool is visible? 21/10/2018

    The top plate may have dropped due to the front layers of insulating gasket moving out of position. This could be for a number of reasons but most often is due to a disturbance during sweeping.

    If the layers of white gasket material are still intact they can be relocated back into position. If not then new sealing strips can be ordered to replace these from our online shop.

     

  7. How often do I need to clean out the ash? 21/10/2018

    The chamber in the Pyroclassic IV can operate with or without ash in it. However, it is preferential to empty this out every week or when the ash builds up to the extent that it could inhibit the operation of the Turboslide.

     

     

  8. When and how should I clean the flue? 21/10/2018

    Pyroclassic Fires are renowned for burning very cleanly when dry fuel is used but you should still always clean your flue once a year. This is often a requirement for many insurance companies.

    Keeping your flue pipes clean will help eliminate the risk of a flue fire. Your flue is also a great indication of how your wood fuel is performing. If the pipes are clean then the wood is good, if the pipes are filling up with carbon, creosote and tar deposits then you may need to revisit the operating instructions and refresh yourself with how to create a cleaner burning fire.

    The easiest way to clean the flue is by placing a deep baking tray or similar under the base of the flue and sweep the flue down into this, this stops all the debris from falling into the top chamber and requiring vacuuming out. Sweeping the flue into the top chamber is never a good idea as it can restrict the flow of gasses from the primary fire chamber and cause your fire to perform poorly.

    To clean the top chamber and wetback, you will need to remove the top plate (it just lifts off) and clean out the top chamber of soot and creosote. Take care not to remove any of the Kaowool lining during cleaning and ensure that the gasket is all intact before replacing the top plate. Support the flue with a frame made of wood so you can easily remove the top plate.

    The build-up around the wetback is best removed by hand. The wetback can be knocked out of alignment if it is moved when the creosote is being cleaned off so be careful as this can cause the constant rise to be knocked out of alignment and can result in water hammer developing in the system.

  9. Why is my door knob charred? 21/10/2018

    This will naturally happen slowly over years of use. However, this process can be accelerated by burning with the Turboslide open continuously and having the fire right up the front near the door. Please read our operating instructions again so you can use the Pyroclassic® IV correctly.

    If you need a replacement doorknob, you can purchase one from our Parts Shop. 

     

     

  10. Why does my Pyroclassic not get as hot as traditional 'black box' style wood fires? 21/10/2018

    The Pyroclassic is not a conventional radiant heater. As with all fires it can only generate the heat available from the fuel loaded into it and a single kilogram of wood fuel, soft or hard wood, carries the same calorific value by weight, so if a 'black box' fire is using 3kgs an hour of fuel and yours is using 2 then the other has 50% more heat being generated during the same period.

    A percentage of the heat from a 'black box' wood fire will be lost up the flue that would normally be captured in the ceramic cylinder of the Pyroclassic. However, this doesn’t generate more heat, it just recovers some of what might have been lost.

    If you want more heat then more fuel and air is the way to generate it. Load an extra piece of fuel in each time and leave the Turboslide open for a little longer, this will build more heat quicker and get the cylinder up to a higher temperature. 

    The maximum temperature wood fuel can combust at is 1100c and the cylinder wall in your Pyroclassic is capable of withstanding temps over 1500c so don’t worry about getting your fire too hot. The other components like the first section of flue and the coloured panels will show signs of high temp levels long before the cylinder.