Help Centre

Click on the heading of the article in red to open the full article. 

  1. Do you recommend using Smartburn in the Pyroclassic? 19/06/2018

    We have not carried out any testing with the SmartBurn in the Pyroclassic so we have no official data to go from and based on the limited knowledge we have of it there is little to suggest that it would make any significant difference to the burn environment inside a Pyroclassic. 

    A Pyroclassic in good working condition should not need a SmartBurn or similar in it to achieve a good, clean, effective and efficient burn.

  2. Why is the Pyroclassic sometimes shown as having a 4kW heat output and sometimes 15kW? 19/06/2018

    The 4kW rating for the Pyroclassic IV comes from the efficiency and emissions testing procedure. This heat output test is a byproduct of other tests and it is acknowledged throughout the industry that this method of testing disadvantages fires with a higher thermal mass.

    In light of this the New Zealand Home Heating Association (NZHHA) established a standalone testing procedure specifically designed to measure the actual kW output of a fire in the laboratory environment. The Pyroclassic IV is only one of a few fires to have been tested with this procedure and the results have confirmed the Pyroclassic IV is capable of providing a genuine 15kW of heat for your home.

    A more accurate way of measuring how well a wood burner will heat you home in the real world is to look at the space heating rating which is usually shown in m2. The higher the area shown the better the fire will be to heat the whole home. The Pyroclassic IV is rated up to 250m2, which is one of the highest ratings of any domestic wood fire.

  3. Air Supply 19/06/2018

    The room or space containing the Pyroclassic needs no additional ventilation unless a draught stabilizer is fitted, in which case a permanent opening of at least 1500mm2 should be provided. Any air opening must be kept clear from blockage and obstruction. Due consideration should be given to air requirements for any other appliances in the same room or home, such as heat transfer kits, kitchen range hoods, laundry dryers, bathroom vents etc.

  4. How do I remove the ash from my Pyroclassic? 19/06/2018

    Remove the ash when the fire chamber is relatively cool. Use the Pyroclassic curved shovel to slowly empty the fire chamber. Ash almost always contains some hot ember.

    Never use a vacuum cleaner. Obtain a metal (non-combustible) ash container with a lid. Store outside on concrete or bare ground.

    Pot ash can be great for your garden if your soils are acidic, use only ash from a cooled fire which used good quality wood.

  5. I am building a very airtight home. Do I need to install an air vent? 19/06/2018

    All wood fires need oxygen to operate effectively. The Pyroclassic IV needs 3.6 cubic metres of air per kilogram of wood. Like all wood fires, if you starve the unit of air, which can easily happen with airtight homes, it will not operate correctly and puff smoke back into the room. For these reasons, we strongly recommend you put in an air vent, approximately the size of a brick.

  6. Why do I need a Wall Screen or a Flue Shield? 19/06/2018

    Pyroclassic Fires can be installed with a double skin half round flue shield or for minimum clearances from combustible walls a correctly sized wall screen must be installed, the clearances for these are shown in the relevant Tech Spec sheet for each fire.  

    Alternatively you can install a Pyroclassic Fire without wall screens if you chose to use a non-combustible wall board product such as Eterpan, Supalux or Promina board and install it as per the manufacture specifications. Usually this involves ensuring a 25mm air gap is maintained between the wall board and any timber framing, through the bottom, up between the combustible surface and the screening material and out of the top.

    In some instances the wall may not contain any combustible material and therefore will not require any screening. 

    Pyroclassic Wall Screens now have a simple keyhole hanging system to make installation very easy.

  7. How far does the door come out into the room when opened? 19/06/2018

    The door when opened comes out 370mm from the front steel plate, plus 20mm for the door knob. 

  8. What does it mean by the Pyroclassic being 'Self Regulating'? 19/06/2018

    The vigorous fire near the loading door automatically slows down as the burning front advances through the firebox towards the back. Each cycle ends with ash and hot ember at the far end of the firebox. Only use the Turboslide when lighting, adding fresh fuel or if you quickly want a very vigorous fire. The Pyroclassic® IV not only provides heat soon after start up but it also stores a lot of the heat from burning your wood, you will get most of this heat back over several hours. Frequent reloading may result in high room temperatures but you will soon know how much and how often to add fuel, the best heater output control is how much and how often you do this. The Pyroclassic® IV is designed to save on firewood and to keep emission levels to the minimum by storing the surplus heat which normally goes up the chimney - this heat is still being released into the room even when the fire is low at the end of each burn cycle.

  9. What if I have a two storey house and require extra flue lengths? 19/06/2018

    A longer flue is fine however this will cause the fire to run at a slightly higher burn rate and consume more fuel than usual due to the extra draw that this length puts on the fire, otherwise there is no issue with this.

    Download our second storey penetration kit installation instructions HERE.

  10. What dimension is the cylinder 19/06/2018

    The cylinder of the Pyroclassic IV is 555 mm long, 367 mm outside diameter and 307 mm inside diameter

    The cylinder of the Pyroclassic Mini is 368 mm long, 367 mm outside diameter and 307 mm inside diameter

    The cylinder is 30 mm thick