Help Centre

Click on the heading of the article in red to open the full article. 

  1. Air Supply 16/12/2017

    The room or space containing the Pyroclassic needs no additional ventilation unless a draught stabilizer is fitted, in which case a permanent opening of at least 1500mm2 should be provided. Any air opening must be kept clear from blockage and obstruction. Due consideration should be given to air requirements for any other appliances in the same room or home, such as heat transfer kits, kitchen range hoods, laundry dryers, bathroom vents etc.

  2. What if I have a two storey house and require extra flue lengths? 16/12/2017

    A longer flue is fine however this will cause the fire to run at a slightly higher burn rate and consume more fuel than usual due to the extra draw that this length puts on the fire, otherwise there is no issue with this.

    Download our second storey penetration kit installation instructions HERE.

  3. What are the National Environmental Standards for Air Quality? 16/12/2017

    The National Environmental Standards for Air Quality (NES) are regulations made under the Resource Management Act 1991 which aim to set a guaranteed minimum level of health protection for all New Zealanders.

    The NES came into effect on 8 October 2004. They are made up of 14 separate but interlinked standards.

    These include:

    • seven standards banning activities that discharge significant quantities of dioxins and other toxics into the air
    • five standards for ambient (outdoor) air quality
    • a design standard for new wood burners installed in urban areas
    • a requirement for landfills over 1 million tonnes of refuse to collect greenhouse gas emissions

  4. How do I clean the outside of the Pyroclassic and the flue pipes? 16/12/2017

    The powder coated panels on the Pyroclassic IV can be wiped clean with some light detergent and warm water You can choose to do this with the panels on the fire or remove them for a more thorough cleaning. Be careful when you remove the front panel to not tear the insulating gasket which is on the inside of the panel: you will need to pull the centre of the panel forward slightly to allow it to clear the space behind it when you slide it up.

    The stainless steel flue pipe can be cleaned using a soft cloth with a small amount of methylated spirits soaked into it. Try to avoid touching the flue pipe with your bare hands as this leaves oils from the skin on the pipe and becomes very hard to remove once the pipes have been heat cycled.

     

  5. Why have Pyroclassic fires dropped from No. 1 on Consumer NZ tests on their last report? 16/12/2017

    Consumer Magazine recently changed the way fires are rated. This has caused some issues across the industry as what were considered the 'best' fires are now not rated near the top...like the Pyroclassic IV. They have changed the weightings of their review to focus more on price for output over emissions and efficiency as they believe this is more in line with what the customer wants.

    This has resulted in a list which is more about heat output for dollars spent rather than which fires actually perform the best. It also makes no provision for servicing costs, warranty duration or expected life of the appliance and its components.

    The statement we have printed in our marketing material - 'Consistently chosen as the top pick for wood fires in all Consumer reviews' refers to the consumer reviews across various formats in NZ, Australia and the UK over the last 30 plus years including true consumer feedback.

  6. What is Pyroclassic Fires' return policy? 16/12/2017

    Pyroclassic Fires is committed to customer satisfaction. If you are unhappy with your purchase for any reason, return it to our Hastings factory within 30 days in the condition and packaging you received it and we will happily refund your money.

    Please note: A 20% repackaging and restocking fee applies. 

  7. What chimney sweeps can you recommend to clean the flue? 16/12/2017

    It would be great if we could keep an up to date national register of all the good chimney sweeps around the country but as you can imagine this is a somewhat transient profession and so a call through the good old yellow pages and an ask around some friends is usually the best course of action to get a sweep. 

    It is always worth asking them if they have done any local Pyroclassic fires before and if so can they tell you where so you can ask the homeowner how it went, any doubts and we are always happy to give some tips to proactive chimney sweeps.

  8. Do you recommend using Smartburn in the Pyroclassic? 16/12/2017

    We have not carried out any testing with the SmartBurn in the Pyroclassic so we have no official data to go from and based on the limited knowledge we have of it there is little to suggest that it would make any significant difference to the burn environment inside a Pyroclassic. 

    A Pyroclassic in good working condition should not need a SmartBurn or similar in it to achieve a good, clean, effective and efficient burn.

  9. Do I need to grease the doorknob spindle? 16/12/2017

    A small amount of graphite grease should be applied sparingly and only occasionally to the spindle of the doorknob, twice a year is usually sufficient.

    Ashes from the fire have a gritty texture and over time this can cause wear on the doorknob spindle. Use a tiny amount of grease to lubricate the groove in the first thread of the spindle which can be applied with a matchstick or cocktail stick.

    Please note: only a small amount is needed, if too much is used it will melt and dribble down causing an unsightly stain, be sure to remove any excess before relighting the unit.

  10. My fire isn’t going like it used to and performs like the flue is blocked even after cleaning. What do I do? 16/12/2017

    Remove the front panel by sliding it up. If there’s a white felt material (gasket), remove this and put back front panel.

    Reason for removal: The gasket is present in Pyro models pre 2015. It was initially there to insulate the bolt but we found it restricted airflow as it tore and clogged the primary air intakes causing the fire to be starved of air.

    If the gasket is not there and you are still experiencing these same issues then it is likely to be one of these three reasons:

    1) Use of wet or unseasoned fuel - test your wood with a moisture meter by splitting a log in two and spiking the centre. If wood is above 20% this is not ideal and you should look at getting some drier wood.

    2) Flue height - it could be a case of the flue not getting enough draw so it needs to be extended to create more positive draw. Every house is different, some houses require 600mm, some 1200mm. This depends on roof configuration and external factors like neighbouring buildings, trees, cliffs & wind.

    3) Operation - you may be unintentionally not allowing the cylinder to get hot enough. Leave the Turboslide open for 30-45 minutes on initial start-up and open again for approximately 5-10 minutes after refuelling to ensure the new fuel has ignited and for the cylinder to maintain an optimum temperature.